The mere thought of Antarctica had always captivated my imagination. Its pristine landscapes, vast ice sheets, and unparalleled wilderness had been a distant dream for as long as I could remember. Finally, the opportunity arose, I had just spent a week deep in the Cuyabeno Reserve – deep within the Ecuadorian Amazon Rainforest… I had an urgent email from Winnie @ Wayfinders (https://wayfinderadventures.com) about the possibility of getting a space on a ship from Ushuaia, Argentina. A very minute amount of thinking, exploring options, funding, asking myself how I was going to get that far south…Emily kinda nailed it home that I HAD to go!
From a bumpy rainforest backroad, with intermittent signal I managed to reserved the space on a G Adventures trip onboard their ship, G Expedition, due to leave early February!
I embarked on a life-changing expedition to the southernmost continent. My first trip to Antarctica was an adventure like no other, an experience that left an indelible mark on my soul… I just had the whole length of South America to traverse – I did this ALL by bus and I still question why? Truly local experiences driving through remote villages and across vast Patagonian plains.
I travelled all the way down to El Fin De Mundo… (the end of the world). Finding myself in a Volkswagen Kombi, picked up at the bus station by Adam of ‘the orange kombi adventures‘. We hiked and explored tierra del fuego – he also managed to get onboard the ship I was departing on with a last minute cancellation… the only obstacle now was a negative covid test…To be at the southernmost point of South America and then to be jumping on a ship to Antarctica was definitely surreal and somewhere i had never ever anticipated to be… but this is how all my travels go.. the ‘no plan – plan’ usually comes out great. A meeting with Winnie at their office to finalise my details and receive some nice free gifts – meal tokens and museum admission.
Embarkation – The G Expedition – Ushuaia,Argentina
The journey to Antarctica was an expedition in itself, boarding the sturdy icebreaker in South America, I had never been on anything quite like it, setting sail across the tumultuous Drake Passage. The crossing was an unpredictable rollercoaster, with waves that seemed to defy gravity. As I clung to the railings and gazed upon the endless expanse of ocean, I realized that I was leaving behind the familiar world for an unknown realm of ice and solitude… On the journey I got to know the staff and fellow passengers – many countries represented and all with stories to tell on how they ended up on this 1970’s ship to Antarctica, for many – ‘the seventh continent.’
After days of anticipation and nausea, amongst some of the passengers, we finally spotted the distant silhouette of the Antarctic Peninsula. ‘We’ being me and Matt, an Australian I’d met on the boat, we made a pact to drink Scotch as we crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66’degrees. 4am sat in a the ship library, the feeling was surreal. As we approached, the landscape transformed from a mirage to a frozen wonderland…our first iceberg spotted far in the distance and we consumed Scotch and some McVities digestives to celebrate! Towering icebergs, sculpted by nature’s hand, glistened far on the horizon. The silence was profound, broken only by the the occasional thunderous crack of calving glaciers.
Here’s a brief overview of those events unfolding – it was a lot more exciting at 4am and witnessing Antarctica mysteriously reveal itself – I don’t think ill ever experience anything like that again!
Arrival Into Antarctica – The White Desert
When does the journey to Antarctica truly commence? Does it start as a fleeting notion in the mind? Perhaps, it crystallizes into reality when dreams morph into plans, forming a timeline. Or maybe the true inception occurs when one embarks on a plane or ship bound for uncharted territory. It could be when the ship casts its lines and embarks on the expedition. And for some, the adventure may only truly begin when they set foot on Antarctica for the very first time. It’s a uniquely personal experience for each individual.
What awaits on this extraordinary adventure? Mostly, it remains shrouded in uncertainty – such is the intrinsic allure of an Antarctic expedition. Much of it is undefined, and very little follows a predictable course. Surprises can spring forth at every twist and turn, adding to the thrill of the journey.
The trip had no itinerary… Upon embarkation, the expedition leader Jonathan said we would shoot straight for the Antarctic Circle and parts beyond – a bold stroke based on favourable weather and ice predictions. After two days of sailing our ship came to anchor off the remote location of Detaille Island, some 16-17 nautical miles below the Antarctic Circle.
Winds and swells were not quite as what was forecast; both were up from predictions. This led to a lively boarding of zodiac’s. Detaille is a small, remote, and very exposed rocky island. The lone fabricated structure on the island (a wooden BAS hut
evacuated in 1959), just up from the landing site, was our primary destination. It stood as a time capsule of sorts, a window back to a period when traveling and working in Antarctica appeared dated yet eerily familiar.
Later that afternoon we had entered the northern segment of the famed Gullet.
Winds and swells had ‘calmed’ within its confines. Zodiacs were lowered and launched for an exploration. Ice in all its forms littered the waterway. Wildlife was scant with a few seabirds and a couple of juvenile Antarctic Fur Seals sleeping on one iceberg, but the ice provided more than enough interest… After cruising round for the afternoon I can still recall how cold I felt and the desire for a warm drink and relative safety of the ship.
Our expedition team was composed of passionate scientists and experienced guides who shared their profound knowledge of the region. We explored remote islands teeming with penguin colonies, seals, and seabirds. Each landing was an opportunity to witness the delicate balance of life in this extreme environment, where even the tiniest organisms played a crucial role in the ecosystem.
In the afternoon we anchored on a prominent headland on the west coast of the island, Bongrain Point was the destination of our afternoon operation. we got to visit to a penguin colony, and several Adélie Penguins were lining the shore. These were newly fledged chicks ready to wet their freshly moulted waterproof feathers for the first time. Traffic to and from the colony further inland from the beach was still steady as adults continued to feed younger chicks.
Camping in Antarctica
Conditions remained promising well into the evening as all the campers busily prepared for their night on the Antarctic shore. Yes, that’s right, we were camping in Antarctica! After packing our bags and bundling up in layers, we eagerly boarded a late-night Zodiac to venture onto the icy terrain.
The evening’s programme began with the task of compacting the snow and carving out a flat space to set up our tents. As we established our temporary shelter and familiarized ourselves with our icy abode for the night, we found ourselves sharing the scene with curious local seals and penguins, providing endless entertainment. I couldn’t resist the temptation to sled down the slope on drybags, ensuring that our spirits and our temperatures remained high on this tranquil, remarkably bright evening in Antarctica.
As the night wore on, and one by one, campers gradually drifted off to sleep, we were serenaded by the distant rumble of glaciers, all while the once-bright sky transformed into a gentle, pink twilight. It was an utterly magnificent night, made even more magical by a gentle snowfall that blanketed the surroundings. I doubt I will ever have the opportunity to camp in a place as uniquely extraordinary as that again!
The morning greeted us campers with serene waters and a complete absence of wind and a huge desire/rush to get back to some form of heat. A gentle snowfall dusted our surroundings in the pre-dawn hours. Zodiacs were dispatched to retrieve us intrepid (stupid) souls who had braved the night with nothing but a thin veneer of nylon shielding us from the Antarctic elements… that morning coffee felt better than any I’ve ever experienced.
We received a preliminary plan to head south towards Neny Fjord with the objective of searching for wildlife and tabular icebergs in the more ‘serene’ Antarctic waters. The moment arrived sooner than expected. While breakfast was still in progress, an announcement echoed over the ship’s PA system. “Ladies and gentlemen, we apologize for interrupting your meal, but there is a pod of Killer Whales ahead of us. It’s time to come out onto the deck.” From the distant point where they were first spotted, the ship slowly made its way into a vast expanse filled with Orcas.
As time passed, some of these individual whales and smaller groups gradually merged into a more cohesive unit as they approached our vessel. This encounter was undeniably one of the most awe-inspiring and privileged moments I have ever witnessed! It felt absolutely surreal and mind-blowing to observe these curious creatures as they explored our ship!
Shortly we arrived into Neny Fjord. The captain then anchored the vessel in full view of a spectacular iceberg, a temple of frozen architecture. The skies began to clear and the sun blazed. Waters remained still. This,apparently, was the perfect setting and opportunity for the ‘Polar Plunge’. Here’s Matt enjoying those Antarctic lows.
An incredible day continued, we sailed to Stonington Island, a place that once enabled aerial missions into the remote and icy territories of Antarctica. This location holds significant Antarctic history for both the United States and the United Kingdom, with well-preserved research bases from both nations. We h explored these bases and the many weird remains before boarding Zodiac boats for a brief journey and wildlife encounter! On our way, near the ship, we encountered icebergs full of Crabeater Seals gracefully drifting on gentle currents. Today has truly been a magnificent- full on day of Antarctic beauty. As the partly cloudy western sky transitioned into shades of peach, gold, and flamingo, the day came to a close with an energetic and enthusiastic crowd gathering in the Polar Bear Bar to enjoy a performance by the ship’s crew band, The Monkey Eating Eagles….lots of guinness and wine was consumed as the ship sailed slowly north.
The Lemaire Channel & The Penola Strait
The day, for me, kicked off as usual on the ship, with the routine of being out on deck by 4 am. There’s something magical about soaking in the serenity and stillness of Antarctica at that early hour—the sun beaming brightly above the horizon, a constant companion during the fleeting Antarctic ‘summer’. We bid farewell to the breathtaking sights of Horseshoe Island, the historic huts, and the awe-inspiring glacial landscapes as the G Expedition charted its course northward.
After (another) hearty breakfast, the goal was to venture into the Penola Strait, navigate through the enchanting Lemaire Channel, and drop anchor near Damoy Point, eventually making our way to the charming Port Lockroy. In the meantime we had numerous options to keep us satisfied, plenty cups of tea, the morning then unfolded with a series of significant lectures,John delving into the world of Southern Elephant Seals and Antarctic Fur Seals inhabiting the Southern Ocean. Following closely, Katie delivered an outstanding presentation, recounting Shackleton’s ill-fated 1914 expedition to traverse the Antarctic continent. This expedition culminated in the renowned journey to Elephant Island and, eventually, to South Georgia aboard the small but resilient boat, the James Caird—an extraordinary feat that has etched itself into the legendary pages of Antarctic history… a book i have gone on to read and enjoy every page – A must for any Antarctica fan!
The day was a substantial day of navigating through the ever-changing Antarctic landscape. It was a welcome change, considering the previous days had been filled with intense activities. The ‘favorable Antarctica’ weather had allowed us to seize every opportunity to venture out. We found ourselves in the Penola Strait, leading to the entrance of what is widely regarded as the most photographed site along the Antarctic Peninsula—the mesmerizing Lemaire Channel… of course with Baileys hot chocolate served on deck!
Damoy Point and the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust
As morning light bathed upon my face, our vessel anchored off Damoy Point, the gateway to the harbor of Port Lockroy. This area, aside from hosting numerous Gentoo Penguins, is surrounded by some oDf the most breathtaking scenery the Antarctic Peninsula has to offer. Majestic mountains emerged directly from the ocean, soaring to heights surpassing 2000 meters. Enveloped in ice, their summits veiled in clouds, these peaks include the Peninsula’s highest point, Mt. Français, standing tall at 2825 meters.
The island also shelters a refuge hut from the British Antarctic Survey (BAS), recently restored to its original condition by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust – Their expedition staff members contributed to the final stages of the renovation and their final efforts coincided with utilizing our Zodiacs to transport remaining construction materials back to Port Lockroy. Now painted in a distinctive peach/orange hue and stocked with essential supplies, the hut is designated as a safety refuge—a valuable addition to the Peninsula’s network of such shelters. The chosen color, orange/peach, pays homage to the original appearance of the hut, dating back to its construction in 1975. Initially serving as an intermediate station for southern exploration, the plateau above the hut once hosted a modest 400-meter-long aircraft runway. I went on an extended hike around the island visiting many groups of penguins – I’ve added the Instagram post below to summarise the hut at Damoy Point after the great work completed by the team!
Visiting the “Penguin Post Office” at Port Lockroy
In the afternoon, we sailed to Goudier Island and dropped anchor near Damoy Point. Many on board were eager for the possibility of visiting the world’s southernmost post office, located on the island and known as Port Lockroy. The BAS hut and museum, originally referred to as British Station ‘A’, had a fascinating history, serving as a secret British armed forces location from 1943 to 1963 before becoming a scientific research station. Restored in 1996, the hut is now open to visitors, mainly from tour ships frequenting the area. On the G Expedition, passengers took the chance to explore and shop in this time capsule of the past…We bought,wrote and sent postcards back to countries located across every continent of Earth! I very unimaginatively sent two back to the UK and bought some UKAHT merchandise!
Bransfield House, the main building on the island named after Edward Bransfield, who arguably discovered Antarctica in 1820, hosted intrigued guests. Surrounded by nesting Gentoo Penguins, these inhabitants seemed unimpressed by us visiting in our red jackets.
We also had the opportunity to explore Jougla Point, situated on the west side of Goudier Island. Nestled amidst massive mountains, the point was home to a substantial colony of Gentoo Penguins peacefully coexisting with breeding nests of Blue-eyed Shags…This whole area was surreal and now I can see how anyone would get fully engrossed in Antarctica life once they’ve spent a season at Port Lockroy.
Upon returning to the ship,we enjoyed an evening barbecue on the deck, inviting all the staff of Port Lockroy onboard for full use of our facilities and to be questioned by curious guests about life and working on this beautiful continent… This sent cogs ticking in my head (spoiler – watch this space) Melanie’s musical performance set the mood, and the night came alive with karaoke for the remainder of the evening…something I didn’t expect to witness in Antarctica… An incredible evening with the sun sitting low on the horizon and many rounds made at the bar!
George’s Point and Orne Harbour
This morning, luck was not on my side and it was pretty clear i wouldn’t be spending it al fresco on deck. Overnight, we were hit by some wild weather. Gazing beyond the dining room window forbidding skies and turbulent seas greeted me. Thirty-knot winds whipped up white-capped swells, and gusts made shimmers dance across the sea surface. This is the true face of Antarctica. The expedition team took a moment, observing the evolving conditions. Despite the rough gangway, wet seas, and potential difficulty in landing, they soon declared, “We’re going for it!” and that we should all get ready for disembarkation into the active ocean below!
Embarking on the zodiacs once again proved to be quite an adventure, and unfortunately, the person at the front of the boat bore the brunt of the wild Southern Ocean. Upon reaching George’s Point, we embarked on a hike, passing by several fur seals and navigating through penguin highways. Gentoos nested on rock outcroppings at various elevations, with young chicks huddling behind their parents to shield themselves from the biting wind and blowing snow. Skuas hovered, persistently hassling the adult penguins and patiently awaiting the perfect opportunity to snatch a chick or an egg. This proved an instant hit for us heartless people who wanted to witness as we called it ‘Antarctic carnage’.
The return journey in the Zodiacs was a stark contrast to the relatively smooth trip’s we’dexperiened more recently. Heading back toward the ship required us to navigate against the wind and swell, with waves splashing across the bow and into the air as we pitched up and over the crests. Despite the challenging conditions, we all returned beyond damp.
After a huge lunch and outfit change the weather seemed to of mellowed, with the sun peeking from behind a light veil of clouds. We were given the option of 2 hikes, obviously I chose the most strenuous one… groups of hikers were deposited on the west side of Spigot Peak for an adventurous trek across the ridge to Orne Harbor. As we ascended the snowy slope, the ship repositioned itself into the harbor, and the remaining crew navigated Zodiacs through a thick band of brash ice to facilitate the landing. Snowy switchbacks guided us up to a rocky ridge where, surprisingly, a colony of Chinstrap penguins was perched. It’s remarkable what these seemingly awkward walkers will scale for the sake of a good nest. Further uphill, the hikers reached the summit, Spigot Peak 285m, with breathtaking views before embarking on an exhilarating glacial descent along a side-slope overlooking the sea below. We learnt of problems the Antarctic is facing, with current rewarming and season shifts penguin chicks aren’t having enough time to develop their waterproof feather pre winter and are succumbing to the harsh winter before being adequately prepared. Along the shoreline, Zodiac cruisers discovered Chinstraps sensibly nesting just a few meters from the water’s edge… I ensured I lingered on this hike and fully got to appreciate the silence, surroundings and friendships I had made on this voyage. We were slowly heading north and I was hoping I could spend an infinite amount of time in the pristine land.
Deception Island – Whalers Bay & President’s Head
Retiring for the night after being captivated by the most stunning,golden sunset, we traversed Bransfield Strait throughout the night. The G Expedition treated us to our initial view of Deception Island right around breakfast. To be honest, I felt a twinge of sadness at this juncture. After witnessing nothing but ice and snow for 12 days, the sight of some semblance of normality made me realize that everyday life was soon to resume. Guided by the ship, we meandered past the expansive colony of breeding Chinstrap Penguins at Baily Head, marveled at the delicate rock pillars of the Needles, sailed beneath Neptune’s Window, and eventually passed through Neptune’s Bellows. Now nestled within the caldera, known as Port Foster, of the volcano, we dropped anchor in Whalers Bay.
The obsidian sands of Whalers Bay, veiled in the ever-present mist from the volcano’s geothermal activity, created a striking panorama as we disembarked near the deteriorating remnants of the Norwegian Hektor Whaling Station…a few Antarctic Fur seals and Gentoo Penguins extended a welcome, accompanied by the unmistakable sulfurous scent of the geothermal phenomena in the vicinity.
Exploring the remnants of the whaling station and the British Antarctic Survey Base ‘B’—part of the WWII Operation Tabarin—which suffered damage during the 1969 eruption and was subsequently abandoned, served as a stark reminder of the potent forces concealed beneath our feet. I then hiked to the summit of Ronald Peak, a panoramic view revealed Kroner Lake below, framed by steep glacial cliffs adorned with dark-hued pyroclastic layers to the northwest. I couldn’t help but think this was a strange,sobering place, symbolizing the impact of human destruction. Yet, nature, resilient and powerful, counteracts our actions through numerous volcanic eruptions, ultimately leading to the abandonment of this island…far from the pristine lands of the Peninsula we’d left behind.
Our ultimate stop revealed itself at President’s Head on the northeastern side of Snow Island in the afternoon. The gentle fog allowed intermittent views of the rocky headland, signifying the conclusive landing of our journey. Steering through the rugged barrier, our Zodiacs guided us to a beach adorned with clusters of Southern Elephant Seals… picture will not show the scale of these beasts. Covering the other extreme of the size spectrum, John directed us to the fragile yet robust vascular plant life flourishing on the island. Wrapping up our beach stroll, surpassing the volcanic geology, we came across southern giant petrels and their chicks…
Holding onto my final connection with Antarctica, I lingered until the last Zodiac departed, savoring the tranquility and stillness of life in the southern reaches. South America looms ahead, promising a mix of chaos, danger, vibrant colors, lively music, and bustling streets…For now the burp of an elephant seal fills the air, waves lapping the shore and the threat of an incoming storm on the Drake Passage looms.
Two days passed, the bow facing north and today started pretty much as the previous one had ended—under partly cloudy skies and over gentle seas. The Drake Passage had treated us kindly, blessing our voyage with calm seas, benign weather, and remarkable wildlife encounters. As dawn broke, a patchwork blue sky stretched over a sea of rolling royal blue, gently brushed by the thinnest of breezes. Upon entering the Beagle Channel, the winds further subsided, maintaining a bright sky and excellent visibility.
It was a day of concluding presentations. Keith initiated with a talk on ice core data and climate change, followed by Jenny providing essential details for a smooth transition back to ‘normal’ life. Biologist John K then focused on the micro life of Antarctica, and Katie presented ways for individuals to help preserve Antarctica through boots-on-the-ground action and acting as ambassadors for the continent. Finally, the Captain’s Farewell cocktail party, auction, and voyage slide show brought our journey to a heartfelt close.
The northward transit across the Drake Passage from Antarctica to South America provided a striking contrast to the initial sail south from Ushuaia, marked by giddy anticipation. Heading to Ushuaia, we were satisfied from our huge adventure. From the incredible sights of albatrosses on the wing to Wilson’s Storm-petrels dancing upon small swells, from Southern Elephant Seals to stately icebergs, from rugged, ice-covered mountains to a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with Killer Whales, and from the crisp scent of cool Antarctic air to the pungent smell of penguins and the musk of Antarctic Fur Seals, our senses were saturated. The ship’s manifest contained the same names as when it set forth from Ushuaia, yet the passengers seemed transformed. United by chance and a shared adventure, we became a random gathering of souls who might never cross paths again. For a brief time, we shared a singular adventure with a life of its own. No two Antarctic adventures are identical. Too soon, we will melt back into our former lives, but the spectacle of Antarctica will forever be a part of us.
Tourism in Antarctica
Antarctica, the frozen frontier! It’s such a unique destination. On one hand, the idea of exploring a pristine, untouched wilderness is exciting. The landscapes are otherworldly, and the wildlife is like nowhere else on Earth. On the flip side, there are concerns about the environmental impact of tourism in such a delicate ecosystem. Striking a balance between allowing people to experience the beauty of Antarctica and preserving its untouched nature is crucial.
On the positive side, tourism can raise awareness about the importance of preserving Antarctica and its unique environment. Experiencing its awe-inspiring beauty firsthand might inspire people to become advocates for its protection. However, the downside is the potential environmental impact. Antarctica is incredibly sensitive to human presence, and even small disturbances can have significant consequences. So, it’s all about finding a sustainable balance between satisfying our curiosity and ensuring the continued well-being of this icy wonderland. We had strict protocols with Biosecurity and following IAATO rules and regulations in regards to operations in antarctica.
My Next Antarctic Adventure
Well, if you find yourself here on this blog, it’s quite apparent that my Antarctic adventure is far from over. Following some intense interviews and thorough checks, I’m set to embark on a journey to Rothera Research Station on Adelaide Island, Antarctica, for a six-month stint starting in December 2023. I will be working for the British Antarctic Survey working on critical power infrastructure, supporting polar science. This all began with my southern expedition with Gadventures, and it sparked a profound transformation within me. The notion of it being a life-changing experience lingered, and now my entire existence is intertwined with all things Antarctica…. Again this whole experience started with Winnie at Wayfinders Adventures – Ushuiaia and for that I couldn’t be more greatful.
An Antarctic Memoir 